Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts
Wednesday, 13 April 2016
Top 3 Ways to Start Ormlänk Chain Weave?
Today is an exciting milestone with the launch of my first ever chain weave tutorial video as part of our new Whytes.tv YouTube Channel - hope you enjoy this lesson and be sure to let me know what you think! So far I've really enjoyed working with our Hero4 Silver - despite all the technical ups and downs of learning a new piece of equipment. POV filming is a lot of fun and I can hardly wait to put together more fresh island content.
Oh, and just for fun - here is an animated GIF of me speed weaving Ormlänk:
via GIPHY
Thursday, 2 July 2015
What chain resources do you utilize on a regular basis?
Just a few of my favourite online resources for maillers - don't forget to add yours to the comments!
Aspect Ratio Calculator
Chain - How It Is Made
Chain Maille FB Group
Chain Scythe
M.A.I.L.
Maillers World Wide
Aspect Ratio Calculator
Chain - How It Is Made
Chain Scythe
M.A.I.L.
Maillers World Wide
Sunday, 10 May 2015
Do you make chainmail and does aspect ratio drive you crazy?
Even a Mastermailler like myself has to admit that the vagaries of jump ring aspect ratio sometimes drive me crazy - especially with material spring-back - which is why I leave jump ring manufacturing to the professionals.
Combating these flusterations are some great software tools such as this handy-dandy chainmail/jewelry aspect ratio calculator capable of computing the inner diameter, wire diameter and aspect ratio of jump rings. This windows program also converts fractions to Metric (MM) and Imperial (inch) measurement and I supports both American (AWG) and Standard Wire Gauges (SWG).
Bravo to the developer for this awesome app and as always Chain-on!
Friday, 3 April 2015
Saturday, 13 December 2014
How DO YOU make a chain shirt?
One link at a time!
Q. No, seriously dude, how do you make a chainmail shirt?
A. I've always wanted to do a sequel for the Art of Chainmail that explains practical applications for the European patterns. In the meantime, here's a quick explanation of the process I use. For me, a lot of what I create is a process as opposed to a strict set of rules. Shaping garments for specifically for my clients is why as a couturier I love haute couture fashion.
Anyhow (assuming we're talking about the European 4-1 weave) I measure evenly around the chest (C on the illustration below) and then up from this point over the shoulders. Then from the top of the shoulder to total length; waist for a shirt, knees for a hauberk.
G is also an important measurement for sizes sleeves if desired.
For construction I start with three rows running around the chest at a length that is equal to the chest measurement. Because of row stretch (AOC - Page 9) I measure this distance with the European pattern "at rest." That is neither stretched nor collapsed, but just resting naturally on a flat surface.
I also make sure that the total number of links is divisible by four so that I can divide the whole pieces into four working quadrants with stitch markers.
From there knit columns up over the shoulders, joining the offset row ends in the middle (top of the shoulder) with a shoulder attachment (AOC - Page 21.) From there I generally fill in the neck, making sure it's left large enough for my head to pass through both ways. (Don't get this wrong, it can hurt!)
I also like to make my shirts with a V-Neck, as I have large collar bones (AOC - Page 11.)
I then build out over the shoulders. For a vest this isn't even really necessary, for a shirt the sleeves can come out square or angle forward a bit. For long sleeves I recommend an angled shoulder attachment (AOC - Page 19.)
Depending on body shape I generally build straight down and allow row stretch to wrap the pattern around the body inside. For a more tailored look links can either be added or removed in order to create subtle expansion and contraction.
For sleeves a hand width measurement (M) is nice, as a reduction along the inside of the sleeve saves a lot of sloppy chain flopping around at the wrist.
I constructed a XX size hauberk for myself last summer and covered the process on my social media network. If you do a search on my YellowSMG Tumblr for "Hauberk" sans quotation marks and scroll through the results you will see a neat reverse chronology of the process emerge.
The "Danny Steel" poster explains the motivation for creating this piece from split links as the unofficial greeter for the second floor of the Gore Bay Harbour Centre where our shop, Whytes, is located.
Any questions? Please feel free to post your best chain vest, byrnie, shirt, haurbergeon, hauberk, etc... techniques below.
Also, in the age of crowd-sourcing solutions, a simple Google Search also turns up lots of juicy chain making instructions.
Q. No, seriously dude, how do you make a chainmail shirt?
A. I've always wanted to do a sequel for the Art of Chainmail that explains practical applications for the European patterns. In the meantime, here's a quick explanation of the process I use. For me, a lot of what I create is a process as opposed to a strict set of rules. Shaping garments for specifically for my clients is why as a couturier I love haute couture fashion.
Anyhow (assuming we're talking about the European 4-1 weave) I measure evenly around the chest (C on the illustration below) and then up from this point over the shoulders. Then from the top of the shoulder to total length; waist for a shirt, knees for a hauberk.
G is also an important measurement for sizes sleeves if desired.
For construction I start with three rows running around the chest at a length that is equal to the chest measurement. Because of row stretch (AOC - Page 9) I measure this distance with the European pattern "at rest." That is neither stretched nor collapsed, but just resting naturally on a flat surface.
I also make sure that the total number of links is divisible by four so that I can divide the whole pieces into four working quadrants with stitch markers.
From there knit columns up over the shoulders, joining the offset row ends in the middle (top of the shoulder) with a shoulder attachment (AOC - Page 21.) From there I generally fill in the neck, making sure it's left large enough for my head to pass through both ways. (Don't get this wrong, it can hurt!)
I also like to make my shirts with a V-Neck, as I have large collar bones (AOC - Page 11.)
I then build out over the shoulders. For a vest this isn't even really necessary, for a shirt the sleeves can come out square or angle forward a bit. For long sleeves I recommend an angled shoulder attachment (AOC - Page 19.)
Depending on body shape I generally build straight down and allow row stretch to wrap the pattern around the body inside. For a more tailored look links can either be added or removed in order to create subtle expansion and contraction.
For sleeves a hand width measurement (M) is nice, as a reduction along the inside of the sleeve saves a lot of sloppy chain flopping around at the wrist.
I constructed a XX size hauberk for myself last summer and covered the process on my social media network. If you do a search on my YellowSMG Tumblr for "Hauberk" sans quotation marks and scroll through the results you will see a neat reverse chronology of the process emerge.
The "Danny Steel" poster explains the motivation for creating this piece from split links as the unofficial greeter for the second floor of the Gore Bay Harbour Centre where our shop, Whytes, is located.
Any questions? Please feel free to post your best chain vest, byrnie, shirt, haurbergeon, hauberk, etc... techniques below.
Also, in the age of crowd-sourcing solutions, a simple Google Search also turns up lots of juicy chain making instructions.
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